Dunstan Chestnuts Castanea dentata X mollissima
Dunstan Chestnuts™ are the best and most widely planted chestnut trees in America - they combine the excellent nut quality and tree form with guaranteed blight resistance. There has never been an instance of Dunstan Chestnuts™ dying from the blight, and they have been grown successfully from Maine and New York, west to Illinois and Wisconsin, and south to east Texas and Florida. They are excellent for commercial and backyard orchards, and are the best tree to plant for attracting deer and wildlife.
Dunstan Chestnuts™ begin to bear at 3-5 years, and produce heavy annual crops (never skipping a year like oaks) of very large, sweet tasting (no tannin) nuts that average 20-35/lb in size, and can produce 20 lbs/tree after only 10 years, and as much as 50-100 lbs/tree at maturity. They are easy to grow and thrive in a variety of locations.
Your planting site selection should be well-drained, non-low lying area, sandy loam soils with a pH between 5.0-7.0. Full sun is required for nut production minimum of 6 hours of full sun. Prepare the area by removing any weeds prior to planting. This step is often overlooked but is absolutely critical to any successful planting. Weeds and grass steal light, water and nutrients from your trees. We recommend weed mats.
Dig the hole twice as wide as the pot but no deeper than the root-ball. Do not add amendments to the soil such as mulch or organic matter, this acts like a sponge and increases root rot and robs the trees of nitrogen from the fertilizer (microbes breaking down the organic matter use nitrogen in the process).
If planting in heavy clay soils, break up the ground under and around the hole, so that the tree is not planted in a bath tub. Roots need oxygen to be able to breathe.
Carefully remove the tree from the pot keeping the soil around the roots intact. It helps to tap the outside of the container to loosen the edge. Do not yank the tree out of the container as this can separate the roots from the tree. If the roots are curled or wrapped up inside the pot, spread them out or cut off severely curled roots. This will promote new root growth.
Remove the pot stake that came with the tree. If the tree appears stable staking is not needed. If using Grow Tubes then staking the tree is not necessary. If staking is necessary, hold the trunk with one hand to find the height at which the unsupported top can stand up on its own and will spring back to a vertical position if lightly flexed. Allow trees a slight amount of flex rather than holding them rigidly in place. Tree straps should be made of material that will not injure the tree.
Remove any ties, tags and labels from trees to prevent girdling trunks and branches.
Plant the tree at the same height they were grow in the pot, not deeper. Bare root trees will have a noticeable color difference between the roots and the trunk. Plant at the depth of this color difference.
Fill in the planting hole with the native soil. Set the tree in the middle of the hole. Avoid planting the tree too deep. Using some soil, secure the tree in a straight position, then fill and firmly pack the hole with the native soil.
Create a water-holding basin around the hole and water the trees in thoroughly at planting. Remove the berm at the end of the second growing season. Water slowly at the drip-line. Water in thoroughly, making sure there are no air pockets around the roots. Air pockets prevent roots from growing into the soil around it.
Plant at least 2 Dunstan Chestnut trees for pollination, but production is better with
more trees when planted 20-50’ apart. Ideal spacing for nut production
is between 30-40' apart.
It is important to provide
a balanced fertilizer such as Scotts Osmocote time release with minor
elements or Espoma Holly Tone Organic Fertilizer.
Minors are very important because if they are not available in certain
as they can be a limiting factor for plant growth. We recommend using
Scotts Osmocote for younger trees Indoor/Outdoor (19-6-12) recommend
amount per directions or Espoma Holly Tone Organic Fertilizer. Spread
the fertilizer evenly under the entire canopy of the tree avoiding a
5-inch area around the trunk. Mix in top 1-3 " of soil, then water in.
For mature trees we recommend using Scotts Osmocote Vegetable/Flower
(14-14-14) recommended amount per directions.
Your local extension service
will make recommendations along with the soil test. Strong rains can also leach
away much of the Nitrogen, which is highly soluable. Nitrogen is a key element
required for plant growth. Do not fertilize at planting. Quick-release
lawn or garden fertilizer can burn the tender roots of young trees before they
become established. We recommend waiting at least a month after the trees have
leafed out before fertilizing with a time-released fertilizer such as Scotts
Osmocote. After applying the fertilizer make sure you water your trees lightly
Once the trees are established, fertilize in early spring
(Mar-April) when growth begins and again in early June with the start of summer rains. Do not fertilize in the fall, which can promote late season tender growth that can be damaged by early frosts.
best time to fertilize fruit trees is during the growing season,
starting in early spring (after bud break) and finishing by July.
is the single most important factor for tree survival. If the year you
plant is like the severe drought experienced by the Midwest several
summers ago, if you do not water your trees they will die. The truth is
that many trees die from too little or too much water during the first
few months after planting. Trees are likely to get too little water in
well-drained soil and too much in soil that is poorly drained. We
recommend for best success to supplemental water your newly planted
trees for the first two years.
planted trees planted in the spring should be watered regularly
(2-4x/week) for the first year or two especially if rains are
infrequent. Water thoroughly but do not over-water; the soil should dry
down slightly between watering. Irrigation from lawn sprinklers is
generally not sufficient until the plants are well established. This is
the most critical step in the establishment of your new trees!
you plant in the fall, water in at planting, and then 1x/week until
they lose their leaves and go dormant with the onset of winter. Resume
watering after leaf out in the spring. Make sure water is applied to the
original root ball. Adjust water according to soil type, temperature,
rainfall, and other irrigation.
Make sure water is applied to the original
root ball. Adjust water according to soil type,
temperature, rainfall, and other irrigation.
The first year is a critical time for the establishment of a new pear. Water thoroughly twice a
week on light soils and once a week on clay soils. Soak the entire root system deeply.
Water regularly, especially during dry periods.
Soil's acidity or
alkalinity is determined by pH. The best range for growing most fruit and
flowering trees is between 5.0 and 7.0. Soils in much of the South fall within
this range. Soils in pine woods are often lower (4.0-5.0) , and need to be
raised by the application of lime or dolomite (see your County Agent for a soil
test and recommended rates). Other areas (such as Texas) have soils with
pH>7, which will need to be acidified or lowered by the application of
nitrogen sulfate or other sulfur-based fertilizers.
It is important to keep
grass and weeds from competing with young trees - they are the biggest
competitor for young trees and steal water and fertilizer from the new
plantings. Try to keep a 2-3' circle clear of weeds from the base of the trunk.
Mulch moderates soil temperature extremes and helps moisture retention as well as keeps weed
growth down. We recommend Grow Tubes, because you can spray Roundup or other
herbicides close to the tree without hitting the stem. If you do not use Grow
Tubes, be very careful with herbicide, especially on young trees, because they
can absorb it directly through the bark. It only takes a few drops to kill the
tree; so apply only when there is no wind, use a colored dye mixed in the
herbicide so you can see it being applied and protect the trunk with a shield
or hood on the fertilizer wand.
Late spring freezes are a
problem in northern locations, especially after the plants have leafed out. If
your trees have already started to grow and you expect a late freeze, then you
should make every effort to protect them, such as using Grow Tubes and other protective
measures. Some areas even in Zone 5 can have killing frosts as late as Memorial
Size Shipped 1 year old 18-36" container grown
Tree Form: Central Leader
Flowers: Showy catkins
Pollination: Plant two Dunstans' for cross pollination
Bloom season: May
Bears: Sep-Oct Depending on climate
Light requirements: Full sun
Soil type: Well-drained, non-low lying areas, sandy loam and pH 5.0-7.0
Fertilization: Do not fertilize at planting. Once
the trees are established, fertilize in early spring (Mar-April) as
growth begins and again in early June with the start of summer rains. Do not fertilize in the fall, which could promote late season tender
growth that can be damaged by early frosts.
Pruning: Pruning consists of the removal of dead, diseased, or damaged branches, maintaining size (width within your landscape).
planted trees should be watered regularly. This is the most critical step in the establishment of your new trees. See watering section under "How to plant and grow"
USDA Hardiness Zone: 5-9 grown successfully from Maine and New York, west to Illinois and Wisconsin and south to east Texas and Florida
Size Shipped 1yr old 18-36" Treeband container grown
Available for pickup at farm Treeband, 3-gallon, 7-gallon, 15-gallon, 30-gallon, 45-gallon and 65-gallon trees.
Please call for quantity prices for larger sizes, and shipping costs.