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Dunstan Chestnut Tree

Our nuts are bigger!
Our nuts are bigger!
Dunstan Chestnut Tree - Dunstan Chestnut
Tree Band 1 year old tree
Dunstan Chestnut Tree - Dunstan Chestnut
Tree Band Root systems - much better than field grown
3 Gallon Dunstan Chestnuts
7-gallon Dunstan Chestnut
30 gallon Dunstan Chestnuts
15-gallon Dunstan Chestnut
30 gallon Dunstan Chestnuts
45 gallon Dunstan Chestnut with nuts
30 Gallon 4 year trees
Item #: Dunstan Chestnut
Availability: Available Fall 2015 Your card will be charged now
Price: $24.95


    Dunstan Chestnuts  Castanea dentata X mollissima

    Dunstan Chestnuts™ are the best and most widely planted chestnut trees in America - they combine the excellent nut quality and tree form with guaranteed blight resistance.  There has never been an instance of Dunstan Chestnuts™ dying from the blight, and they have been grown successfully from Maine and New York, west to Illinois and Wisconsin, and south to east Texas and Florida.  They are excellent for commercial and backyard orchards, and are the best tree to plant for attracting deer and wildlife.

    Dunstan Chestnuts™ begin to bear at 3-5 years, and produce heavy annual crops (never skipping a year like oaks) of very large, sweet tasting (no tannin) nuts that average 20-35/lb in size, and can produce 20 lbs/tree after only 10 years, and as much as 50-100 lbs/tree at maturity. They are easy to grow and thrive in a variety of locations. 


    Your planting site selection should be well-drained, non-low lying area, sandy loam soils with a pH between 5.0-7.0. Full sun is required for nut production minimum of 6 hours of full sun. Prepare the area by removing any weeds prior to planting. This step is often overlooked but is absolutely critical to any successful planting. Weeds and grass steal light, water and nutrients from your trees. We recommend weed mats.

    Dig the hole twice as wide as the pot but no deeper than the root-ball. Do not add amendments to the soil such as mulch or organic matter, this acts like a sponge and increases root rot and robs the trees of nitrogen from the fertilizer (microbes breaking down the organic matter use nitrogen in the process).

    If planting in heavy clay soils, break up the ground under and around the hole, so that the tree is not planted in a bath tub. Roots need oxygen to be able to breathe.

    Carefully remove the tree from the pot keeping the soil around the roots intact. It helps to tap the outside of the container to loosen the edge. Do not yank the tree out of the container as this can separate the roots from the tree. Carefully separate the roots if they are root bound.

    Remove the pot stake that came with the tree. If the tree appears stable staking is not needed. If using Grow Tubes then staking the tree is not necessary. If staking is necessary, hold the trunk with one hand to find the height at which the unsupported top can stand up on its own and will spring back to a vertical position if lightly flexed. Allow trees a slight amount of flex rather than holding them rigidly in place. Tree straps should be made of material that will not injure or girdle the tree.

    Remove any ties, tags and labels from trees to prevent girdling trunks and branches.

    Plant the tree at the same height they were grow in the pot, not deeper. Bare root trees will have a noticeable color difference between the roots and the trunk. Plant at the depth of this color difference.

    Fill in the planting hole with the native soil. Set the tree in the middle of the hole. Avoid planting the tree too deep. Using some soil, secure the tree in a straight position, then fill and firmly pack the hole with the native soil.

    We recommend creating a water-holding basin around the hole and water the trees in thoroughly at planting. Remove the berm at the end of the second growing season. Water slowly at the drip-line. Water in thoroughly, making sure there are no air pockets around the roots. Air pockets prevent roots from growing into the soil around it. After the water has soaked in, spread a protective layer of mulch 2-4" deep around the trunk pulling the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to keep the moisture from accumulating next to the bark. Choices for mulch, leaf litter, hay, shredded or fine bark, pine needles.


    Plant at least 2 Dunstan Chestnut trees for pollination, but production is better with more trees when planted 20-50’ apart. Ideal spacing for nut production is 35-40' apart.


    It is important to provide a balanced fertilizer such as Scotts Osmocote time release with minor elements or Espoma Holly Tone Organic Fertilizer. Minors are very important because if they are not available in certain soils, as they can be a limiting factor for plant growth. We recommend using Scotts Osmocote for younger trees Indoor/Outdoor (19-6-12) recommend amount per directions or Espoma Holly Tone Organic Fertilizer. Spread the fertilizer evenly under the entire canopy of the tree avoiding a 5-inch area around the trunk. Mix in top 1-3 " of soil, then water in. For mature trees we recommend using Scotts Osmocote Vegetable/Flower (14-14-14) recommended amount per directions.

    Your local extension service will make recommendations along with the soil test. Strong rains can also leach away much of the Nitrogen, which is highly soluable. Nitrogen is a key element required for plant growth. Do not fertilize at planting. Quick-release lawn or garden fertilizer can burn the tender roots of young trees before they become established. We recommend waiting at least a month after the trees have leafed out before fertilizing with a time-released fertilizer such as Scotts Osmocote. After applying the fertilizer make sure you water your trees lightly for absorption.

    Once the trees are established, fertilize in early spring (Mar-April) when growth begins and again in early June  with the start of summer rains. Do not fertilize in the fall, which can promote late season tender growth that can be damaged by early frosts.

    The best time to fertilize fruit trees is during the growing season, starting in early spring (after bud break) and finishing by July.


    Water is the single most important factor for tree survival. If the year you plant is like the severe drought experienced by the Midwest several summers ago, if you do not water your trees they will die. The truth is that many trees die from too little or too much water during the first few months after planting. Trees are likely to get too little water in well-drained soil and too much in soil that is poorly drained. We recommend for best success to supplemental water your newly planted trees for the first two years.

    Newly planted trees planted in the spring should be watered regularly (2-4x/week) for the first year or two especially if rains are infrequent. Water thoroughly but do not over-water; the soil should dry down slightly between watering. Irrigation from lawn sprinklers is generally not sufficient until the plants are well established. This is the most critical step in the establishment of your new trees!

    If you plant in the fall, water in at planting, and then 1x/week until they lose their leaves and go dormant with the onset of winter. Resume watering after leaf out in the spring. Make sure water is applied to the original root ball. Adjust water according to soil type, temperature, rainfall, and other irrigation.

    Make sure water is applied to the original root ball. Adjust water according to soil type, temperature, rainfall, and other irrigation.

    The first year is a critical time for the establishment of a new pear. Water thoroughly twice a week on light soils and once a week on clay soils. Soak the entire root system deeply.

    Water regularly, especially during dry periods.

    Soil pH

    Soil's acidity or alkalinity is determined by pH. The best range for growing most fruit and flowering trees is between 5.0 and 7.0. Soils in much of the South fall within this range. Soils in pine woods are often lower (4.0-5.0) , and need to be raised by the application of lime or dolomite (see your County Agent for a soil test and recommended rates). Other areas (such as Texas) have soils with pH>7, which will need to be acidified or lowered by the application of nitrogen sulfate or other sulfur-based fertilizers.

    Weed Control

    It is important to keep grass and weeds from competing with young trees - they are the biggest competitor for young trees and steal water and fertilizer from the new plantings. Try to keep a 2-3' circle clear of weeds from the base of the trunk. Mulch moderates soil temperature extremes and helps moisture retention as well as keeps weed growth down. We recommend Grow Tubes, because you can spray Roundup or other herbicides close to the tree without hitting the stem. If you do not use Grow Tubes, be very careful with herbicide, especially on young trees, because they can absorb it directly through the bark. It only takes a few drops to kill the tree; so apply only when there is no wind, use a colored dye mixed in the herbicide so you can see it being applied and protect the trunk with a shield or hood on the fertilizer wand.

    Freeze Protection

    Late spring freezes are a problem in northern locations, especially after the plants have leafed out. If your trees have already started to grow and you expect a late freeze, then you should make every effort to protect them, such as using Grow Tubes and other protective measures. Some areas even in Zone 5 can have killing frosts as late as Memorial Day!


    Size Shipped 1 year old 18-36" container grown - $24.95

    Height: 40-60'

    Spread: 30-40'

    Tree Form: Central Leader

    Flowers: Showy catkins

    Pollination: Plant two Dunstans' for cross pollination

    Bloom season: May

    Bears: Sep-Oct Depending on climate

    Light requirements: Full sun

    Soil type: Well-drained, non-low lying areas, sandy loam and  pH 5.0-7.0

    Fertilization: Do not fertilize at planting.  Once the trees are established, fertilize in early spring (Mar-April) as growth begins and again in early June with the start of summer rains.  Do not fertilize in the fall, which could promote late season tender growth that can be damaged by early frosts.

    Pruning: Pruning consists of the removal of dead, diseased, or damaged branches, maintaining size (width within your landscape).

    Watering: Newly planted trees should be watered regularly. This is the most critical step in the establishment of your new trees. See watering section under "How to plant and grow"

    Maintenance: Easy

    USDA Hardiness Zone: 5-9  grown successfully from Maine and New York, west to Illinois and Wisconsin and south to east Texas and Florida

    Price does not include Shipping and Handling.

    Ground Shipping Rates:
    up to $100.00 = $22.50
    $100.00+ = 22.5%

    Available for pickup at farm Treeband(Qt size), 3-gallon, 7-gallon, 15-gallon, 30-gallon, 45-gallon and 65-gallon trees. 

    Please call for quantity prices for larger sizes, and shipping costs.



     Price Each 


     1-9  10-24  25-49  50-99  100+

    Treeband (Qt)
    1 yr
    $24.95 $22.95 $20.95 $18.95 $16.95
    3-gallon2yr $34.95 $31.95 $29.95 $27.95 $24.95
    7-gallon3yr $44.95 $39.95

    15-gallon4yr $79.95 $74.95

    30-gallon5yr $169.95 $159.95

    45-gallon6yr $269.95
    65-gallon7yr $469.95